KaaBa,The most sacred sight in Islam, situatede within the great mosque at Mecca, the
sacred black stone, set into the E corner of its walls. The stone, is the
focus-point to Which Muslims turn when they pray. Mecca – Kaaba- Saudi Arabia
.1959
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OUR PILGRIMAGE TOWARD MECCA
We are entering the oil rich Kuwait-a small Sheikhdom about the size of
Luxemburg. Kuwait enjoys about U.S. $600,000,000 annually from oil revenues and
the main problem facing each Sheikh is how to spend his income. Kuwait collects
almost no tax and spends ten times mire per capita than any other nation in the
world for public services and medical care and education. It has been
transformed by oil from a barren land of mud huts into a booming oasis of
commerce.
Lord Myners said that during the weekend of the bail-out, he did
not meet RBS chairman Sir Tom McKillop and the senior independent
director Bob Scott until the evening of 11 October - the day after
it was agreed that Sir Fred would leave the bank.
At the talks, in which he was accompanied by a lawyer acting for
the Treasury, he said he had used a "standard script" to set out the
government's position.
Most of it goes on expanding their Harems and buying big American cars. Having
only recently jumped from the back of their camels into their Cadillac. so to
speak, they are ignorant about the working of a car. If it ran out of petrol
these sheikhs are inclined to take one look at the engine, considering it has
burnt itself out, and abandon the machine at the side and buy even a more
advance model. New office buildings stand empty, new roads trail off in the
desert with no place to go. The sun-seared stretch of land jutting into the
Persian Gulf has 250,000 populations, most of whom have nothing to do except
counting their bank notes, they do not approve of depositing the money in bank
and often pile them under their mattress. What delights these people most is
hunting for bustards with falcons it is thrilling o watch how falcons chase and
catch the bustards, each falcons has its own special owner and refuse to hunt
foe anyone else.
Moving on to Saudi Arabia we went toward Riyadh, the capital city of this vast
desert Kingdom, near the city we happened to meet few Italian engineers who
were engaged on road construction, first thing they said with utter sadness
was: “In this damn country it is six months since we have not seen the face of
a woman, and to hell with high salaries
“ We told them that we sympathies with you and really know what you mean. Here
in Riyadh the old buildings clash with the newly built palaces as the oil
revenue pours into the country.
Passing palace after palace makes the eyes blur, some of them burn more
electricity than Monaco. It was Friday and the Muslim’s Sabbath, so, the next
day we contacted the king Saud brand new university; a party was held in our
honor and afterward we showed a film on explorations of the Amazon Basin, over
600 students attended.
Much of RED TAPES had to be solved before projecting the films and finally
success favored us because we told them it is not foe other reason than for
education. The public film show in Saudi Arabia is completely prohibited,
because this is the only country in the East that ignores the modern laws and
fudge accordance to the Koran laws. After the film was over the students who
are striving to learn what goes on out of Arabia, shook our hands in the mist
welcoming manner; one of them told us that our film shoe broke the barriers and
paved the way, while another student said: “Of -course each Prince has a
private theatre and thy see the latest Parisian striptease”, however we can be
sure that our film show was the first attempt in the history of Saudi Arabia.
DINNER WITH THE MONARCH
According to the invitation we waited in our residence till a Cadillac-one of
several hundreds in the palace garage, called for us. We drove along the fine
asphalt road to the palace, so many flowers and vegetables decorated the garden
that hardly could we imagine the fact hat we are in the middle of a desert. All
the money that pours into this country as royalty from American-Arabian Oil co.
Is spent within the palace walls, with this income King Ibn Saud wields life
and death over his poverty striken subjects and indulges every whim he and his
335 royal brothers, sons, cousins and nephews can dream up.
Dinner was served in a vast hall hanged with teardrop chandeliers of most
expensive crystal, its walls and floors covered with rich carpets. One side of
the air conditioned room bordered a courtyard lusters with ornamental gardens
and sparkling fountains. Fifty of us sat at the table, mostly Princes who make
cabinet members. As a special honor, we were sitting shoulder with shoulder of
the King. The King himself lolled in a high backed chair.
The Arabs are known for their hospitality; sometimes they went too far out of
their way to be nice to us. Being just two ordinary person with no official
ranks, honestly we felt quit flattered at the Royal banquet. To be even more
hospitable each one of them threw in our plates the best pieces of their
mutton. At last our plates were loaded with best meat, thanks Allah that they
did not give us the sheep’s eyes.
The meal lasted hour and a half, food was carried by troops of slav some
received as gifts from his noble-men and some are purchased. Most of Saud food
is flown in regularly from the U.S.A., Italy and Lebanon in order to satisfy
the Royal whim, a bunch of clever contractors are making good fortune on it.
Talk hobbled through the meal, nut Saudi Arabs have little conversation at
best, Saud himself has less than most. As soon as King decided to speak to us,
the same crawling man came forward. He king asked our future destination, he
was disturbed to hear that we are intended crossing the country to Mecca in our
little car and told us we had better to forget all about it. He knew of the
disappearances of many former Arab adventurers who have taken the risk for
pilgrimage. However, when he king realized that we are determined to carry on
the risk, he then wished us good luck and wired the various groups of His camel
Corps along the way to be on the look out for us. Little then we knew how
grateful we would be for his services. Then he made us clearly understood that
through his protocol will convey us a present for each as a remembrance, it is
he said: “Tow golden watches with my portrait depicted on it’ But unfortunately the watches never reached us
TOWARD MECCA
The next day we ventured into the “OCEAN OF SANDS”, for many experience still to
come. using compass and mp we took South Westerly direction toward Yemen and
then to Mecca, enroot to our amazement we saw a man walking all alone, with our
limited knowledge of Arabic language we managed to ask him that where is he
heading form he named one oasis and according to our charts it was roughly one
hundred kilometers away, with surprise we asked him why? He answered: “Ah just
to have few words with my friends and a cup of tea together
” Wholly smoke, what else can we expect in a country where they walk 200
kilometers just for having a chat; they would not need a road! Leaving him
behind us marched ahead. We had sufficient petrol for 1200 kilometer as well as
food and water. In the Sahara the accurate calculation often goes wrong often a
bush appear like a tree toward which we drove for its shadow.
We are heading toward Mecca not only because it was in our way to Africa, but
at the command of Prophet who says in Koran: “VERILU, THE FIRST HOUSE FOUNDED
FOR MANKIND TO WORSHIP IN IS SURELY AT MECCA, A BLESSING AND GUIDING PLACE TO
THE WORLD”.
Every Muslim is supposed to visit it once before he dies if at all possible in
time for the appointed day, but since we could not have that privilege, we went
off the season when it is much more quiet. In the Muslim lunar month of
Dhu-L-Haja pilgrims from distant places head for Mecca, some plodding eastward
under desert stars by camel from Kuwait, from the sandy wastes of Libya, from
Istanbul and Mongolia. Yes indeed in the time for Haj, from every land, by
every route, come driblets and droplets of humanity trickling down from distant
mountains and far off ea ancient cities until over whole scope of Islam they
will become like pouring streams and in Mecca these streams join to make a real
tide.
Our purposes for going to Mecca was quite clear, to bring for the western world
a richer scope and understanding as well as knowledge of Islam. To more than
400.000.000 Muslims, the Haj or pilgrimage has a central living significance.
After three and one half days the condition grew tense by the minutes, we felt
that we are midway between nowhere. The shifting sand was too loose to drive on
it, with their velvet eaves looked like an ocean and in fact we were drawn in
it, all we could do was struggle for survival. The regional name “EMTY QUARTER
“
“VA ALIKUM-U-SALAM” which means, we are also coming with peace” at the mention
if this greeting one can trust the Bedoin, otherwise years before when killing
and slaughtering raged the people, often people crossed one another from
opposite direction attacked for no reason. I told the Bedoins our problem and
begged them for help.
Is quite appropriate. We flat the tires and spread the chicken wire net and it
proved to be mist useful. After another day or so of struggle we were lost and
after some useless attempts we run out of petrol and water. There was nothing
to do. But anxiety, of desperation. For almost two whole days we sat with our
fears “WOILD HELP COME?” we prayed and waited.
We kept up our diary so that if we expired, at least a record remain. Exactly
like four American crew of the Air force that fifteen years ago were forced to
land over the Libyan desert and recently their corpses were found while pilot
has been writing in his note-book in which you can see as his energy decreases.
When we had almost given up the hope, we saw something is moving in the distant
horizon, It was a camel caravan Issa shouted, “HAD THEY SPTTED US” by then half
the car was buried under the shifting sand. While my brother stood on the roof
of the car to be on the look out, I ran toward the caravan for help, but the
further on I run the farther it appeared to be, the sand was too loose and I
used to sink till knee, meantime the caravan also came toward me.
I thanked Allah for being from a Muslim country and that I knew the Muslim ways
of greeting and rituals, otherwise it would have been more difficult to get
along. I greeted them “ASSALAM-U-ALIKUM” with Arabic pronunciation.
Before they offered me help they wanted to know if I am a Muslim, so as they
were illiterate I found no point in showing my passport or any other identity
card, instead repeated a Koran verse which is the Muslim’s unique passport
throughout the world. Then they shook my hands and hugged me in the Arab
fashion. They decided to come and help us out, but the car was completely out
of vision and even my own foot prints had disappeared with the shifting sands,
but the caravan members who had seen me at the time I was coming toward them,
were able to orient the direction and for this we had to credit their
ingenuity. The Bedoins are able to feel the sand with their finger tips and
predict which part of the peninsula belongs. the Bedoins are able to drink the
camel’s milk and predict where the camel has been grazing.
The Arabs pulled our car from its sandy grave and with the help of their camels
towed it across the desert for three days. Near one oasis we re met by a group
of, the camel corps who were searching for us, alas we were safe……. Within 48
hours these fellows brought us spirit for our car, fifty liters of petrol which
worth every thin, but how and where in the world they got it remained still a
mystery, when we were filling our automobile tank with gas, the Bedoin murmured
and said that the poor animal is very thirsty. The journey from there to Mecca
was fairly uneventful, but word of our coming had preceded us and we were met
at the gates of the holy city by the Mayor and other dignitaries. At this spot
we had to wash our bodies and purify our souls before donning the simple white
cloth which must be worn by pilgrims. A king or a beggar, a wealthy man or an
ordinary clerk, A Malayan Muslim or a Russian Muslim-all and everybody were
exactly looking equal, for in the House of Allah there is no distinction.
As we did not know the various rites to be observed, upon entering Mecca we went
step by step behind our guide and finally we found ourselves at last before the
. Great Mosque of Mecca, we entered it by the greatest door called after Ibn
Saud and passed thence through the inner gate and suddenly found ourselves in a
courtyard. There beyond the wide stone and marble set pavement, stood the house
toward which all Muslim, the world over turn their face and hearts. The Ka’beh
which is better known as BLACK STONE among the western people, is fabled to
have been given by Gabriel to Abraham and which represents the direction to
which Muslims always turn when praying.
Ka’beh is severely square and built by smaller stones covered by a black
velvet.
A breeze filtering down from the barren hills moved the skirt of the ka’beh’s
covering and let it billow and ripple in gentle folds. Traditionally we had to
chant this verse “HERE AM I, O GOD, AT THY COMMAND! NO EQUAL HAST THOU, HERE AM
I”
About fourteen hundred years ago the Ka’beh was a temple in which idols were
worshipped by the Arabs, Allah sent a number of prophets to teach the people
soon forgot the teachings of the prophets and began to worship various objects
and creature of this world. So the Arab prayed to the idols they had set up in
the Ka’beh, although the Ka’beh was built by the prophet Abraham, an ancestor
of Mohammad, for the worship of Allah and Allah alone,
The Arabs in those days lived in tribes and tribes fought one another, they did
not respect a common law and the strong man ruled the weak man, they were also
very proud and did not regard all men as equal.
It was among such a people that the Prophet Mohammad was born in the year 570
A.D. He was descended from the tribes of Ghoraish, which occupied a position of
dignity and honor in the whole of Arabian Peninsula. His father Abdullah had
died before he was born in the year 570 A.D. He was descended from the tribes
of Ghoraish, which occupied a position of dignity and honor in the whole of
Arabian Peninsula. His father, Abdullah, had died before he was born.
We girdled the Ka’beh seven times and repeated whatever our guide preached,
some of these Koran verses are too long and tongue-twisting and difficult to
pronounce them. As the Muslim multitude when their long journey finally ends,
they sit for circling Ka’beh is called TWAF, three sequence of Twaf must be
accomplished during the pilgrimage, each sequence is seven round which makes
person real tired. This business of circumambulation, an old custom, has a
meaning of turning the thoughts of pilgrims upon the souls of own seeking the
House of God.
At the time when we circumambulated Ka’beh, we had our camera equipments hidden
beneath our white garment. As we girdled around, the cameras crashed and
produced jangling sound which drew the guide’s attention. As no one is allowed
to bring in any material thing to the house of Allah, the guide asked that what
makes the sound. In our broken Arabic language told him that: recently we have
been operated and the doctors must have installed a metallic intestine. Our
mission for filming Mecca was fulfilled through a local person, luckily. His
Highness the Khalifa of Mecca had sent a very handsome Cairo graduate with some
years of training in England and was needed by everybody for his practice in
medicine. Josef with modern ideas could not tolerate his country men and he
promised to help us in the most hair-raising task for filming the sacred
places, only through his popularity and influence we accomplished add we
wanted.
Till our visit the Mecca, it was for the first time in the history of
Saudi-Arabia that, we ventured in the most hair-raising to make such a
documentary film on Mecca: The most sacred place for the Muslim. Although was
not the season of pilgrimage, faithful could be seen from many lands, some
chanting, some weeping, some struck dumb in contemplation of this at their
front, “THE NAVEL OF THE WORLD”. After the Twaf round the Black Stone the
professional men who sell water brought forward their merchandise of pure
water, in this country the water has quench the thirst for it is sacred and
pilgrims pay for it to drink the holy water inregardless of its cost.
Here in the Muslim legend, Abraham left his wife and son in the desert, rushing
frantically from one spot to the other to obtain water for her son Ishmael who
was dying of thirst, until the angle Gabriel led her back at last to a spring
which bubbled up miraculously near the child’s feet. That same Spring Muslins
believe, now feeds the well of Zamzam within the Grat Mosque. By their running
seven times the pilgrims commemorate each time the mother’s anguish and amazing
discovery.
It was noon and the time for prayer, we followed example of the crowd, thousand
gathered before the shrine. This is the holiest city… the Imam cries. And
non-Muslims are prohibited to set foot in it, though we were born in a Muslin
family we did not want to risk arousing suspicion by our ignorance of the
rituals, any non-Muslim caught in the area faces serous punishment.
In some way we felt great delight, because after our visit to the prohibited
land of Tibet in 1956, Mecca was the only place where we did not see tourists
with their cameras constantly open. Mecca widely differs from Vatican or Plaza
de concord where daily bus loads of tourists make over million snapshots. If a
non-Muslims ventures in this holy city, first he will be fined 6,000 Rials,
secondly four years of imprisonment. In all the aviation charts, the pilots are
strictly warned not to fly over the sky of non-Muslims to fly over the holy
city.
We had in fact very difficult time to photograph under such fearful conditions
and we are about the first people to have filmed it, most of it in secret
otherwise in the protection of police. Why photography seems evil to them? It
might be difficult to digest for occidental people, but here is the reason:
First Mohammed banned all kind of representations of the human forms and
especially sculptures; this is simple to understand because the bases of
Islamic faith is contrary to the idol worshipping. Secondly in the eyes of some
Muslims the appearance of a camera and the click of a snapshot is not nice in
the House of Allah and will stop faithful off their solemn contemplation.
Mecca resembled the ancient cites of Samarkand and Bokhara, the waster supply
is by draining from the wells and carrying it in the goat-skin for delivery as
it was a thousand years age. The money changers sat behind the large piles of
silver and gold coins, the souvenir shops are loaded with tapestries on which
scenes of the holy shrines are depicted, though these tapestries are the
products of Japan or Italy, yet faithful but them in dozens for their anxious
relatives back home. Five times every day Muslims abandon their business far
flung open and head for prayer, shops are left open because there are no danger
such as robbery, all the street thieves are without hand.
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